World Cup.   

Team Mexico was out there playing hard - winning some, and losing. The atmosphere was pretty upbeat and high when Mexico tied with South Africa and beat France. (That lasted a short while.) Even though Mexico is now out of the running, I’ll never forget hearing people scream “¡¡GOOOOOOOOL!!” in the city center, in friend’s homes, at work, and even on the ruta (bus).
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Here we took some of the students to the zócalo (Cuernavaca’s city center) to watch the game.

Travel to Mexico City

Fellow YAGM Katherine, Peter, Sara and I took a long weekend to visit Mexico City, or Districto Federal, as it’s called - D.F. for short. We took in a few museums, floated down river canals in Xochimilco, and walked through “Casa Azul” (The Blue House) where the famous artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera once lived. 
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Me, Katherine and Sara on our small boat in Xochimilco.
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(Frida and Diego lived in this house - 1929-1954)

I’m Fine!


These are the words I hear each morning when I come into work. Lately in English class we’ve been working on greetings: 

Hi. How are you? / I’m fine. etc etc. 

Now the resounding “1-2-3! I’m Fine!” has become my morning welcome. In fact, some of the teachers have even started calling me “Katie ‘I’m Fine!’ Nelson.” Sounds about right.
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Farewell visit

Fellow volunteer Sarah and I had the chance to visit dear ones in the mountainside community where we worked up until February. Saying final goodbyes was hard, to say the least; but it was a joy to see familiar faces, give HUGE hugs to the young women that I worked with for so many months, and once again enter into some of the homes that welcomed me right from the start. 

Below Sarah and I walk down into one of the community wells. During this time of year when the well level is so low, people have to walk all the way down to the bottom and let their buckets fill up from a small trickle in the rock. 
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Fin del curso


Colorful balloons, streamers and students’ artwork decorated GADI (the school/day center where I work) for our end-of-the-year party. Families and friends came to celebrate an incredible year and watch their children and siblings sing, dance, do some tae-kwon-do for the crowd, and receive lots of awards. 
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When it was all over we devoured delicious tlacoyos to top off what was a fantastic run of events! 
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Farewell dinner for coworkers and host families

As a group, us YAGM volunteers hosted a dinner for our coworkers and homestay families. It was one teary-eyed evening giving thanks to those who have opened their lives, homes and hearts with us this year. 

It struck me that evening that this year’s experience, with it’s highs and lows and oh-so-many memories, is something that I’ll never be able to forget. I’m beyond amazed to look back on what this year has given me, the people I’ve met, the places I’ve visited, and all that I’ve grown to know and love. 
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I was really touched that my coworkers came for the dinner last Sunday. Here I am with Viri, Liz, her baby Erik, and Rosita.


That said, it feels good to be on the homestretch. 

These last few days leave me feeling pulled in many directions, sifting through lots of emotions with goodbyes and thank-you’s, and with many thoughts on what it will be like to return home. It’s hard to believe that in less than a week I’ll be leaving my adorable students, my friends here and fun coworkers.

But in these last few days, my focus is on being HERE. To soak in all that I can, continue the process of saying goodbyes, and soon I’ll be able to rejoin my family and friends back home. 

 
At the end of May, our YAGM group met for our second-to-last retreat. While we were there, our country coordinator, Andrea asked us to reflect on this year in Mexico, what we've discovered about ourselves, and our fears and excitement about returning home. Given that we have less than a month and a half left here there's a lot to think about.

My hope in sharing this letter with you is that it might just help with the whole reentry and readjustment phase that I've been hearing so much about! I don't know exactly what to expect but - as we were reminded - any time of transition 
(may it be entering a post-grad program, starting a new job, returning home after a year of service, etc.) doesn’t just affect the person stepping into these new sets of circumstances; it affects everyone around us. 

This letter, then, is for the both of us.

 
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Dear family and friends:


Ten months ago I packed my bags and my courage, and arrived in Mexico full of nerves and excitement - with hardly a clue about how the direction of this year would unfold. Waking up to the sounds of rutas, roosters and ranchera music seemed so strange at first to my suburban Chicago ears. And I wasn’t sure what to think of eating slimy nopales (cactus paddles), chayote (prickly pear), or the flor de calabaza (squash blossom) tucked inside my quesadillas. Meal after meal, I wondered about the variety of chile as I sniffled my way through colorful plates covered in spicy salsas. Navigating the city center seemed like a maze - as if back in the 1500s, Cuernavaca’s original city planners sat down, played a game of pick-up sticks, and decided that's how the city would be laid out. Still, it wasn’t until I arrived in the mountainside village (2 hours outside of Cuernavaca) that I realized I was really in for something different -- quickly setting aside my fondness for four-legged creatures while learning to anticipate aggressive dogs during home visits, often carrying an umbrella (my weapon of choice) or a small rock with me, just in case. Oh, yes. There have been times when Mexico felt like a world away from home. 

Especially in those first few weeks and months, the acute awareness of my new surroundings reminded me that I am someone rooted in the community that sent me on this way. Your faces have flashed through my mind and your names have passed my lips in conversation with my hosts, new neighbors and friends. Deep down, I know I would not be who I am without you. 


Over the course of this year I’ve also discovered that my personhood has grown to include the communities that I’ve been placed with. Through them I've experienced the depth and wonder of being able to walk alongside - and be transformed by - the new place, people and all that this journey contains. It’s taken time to build relationships and immerse myself in this slice of Mexican culture. With more feelings of rootedness and uprootedness than I imagined was possible, “home”, then, is profound and intense. 

The accompanying joys and hardships are many. I’ve found myself embraced and accepted unconditionally. I’ve also felt the weight of loneliness and brokenness on my shoulders. I’ve been reminded that I am an outsider. Again and again, I’ve experienced my humility. I’ve encountered spectacular moments of grace and found deep peace in the most surprising places. I’ve felt my heart stretch beyond its capacity. The knot in my throat has hardened and softened over time. I’ve discovered an inner strength; a courage I didn’t know existed within. 

With so much that is familiar, comfortable and reassuring chiseled away at, naturally I’ve experienced times of intense vulnerability and openness. In the company of once new and now familiar faces, I’ve laughed until my sides ached, hiked and sweat all over village roads, and cried tears over homesickness (especially hard on Thanksgiving day). I've been with mothers as they collect water from community wells; I’ve sat around three-rock fires learning how to make corn tortillas; I’ve woven countless “canastitas”, or small palm baskets, and listened to stories of everyday life - soaking in the ancient wisdom of lo cotidiano, in daily patterns like these. 

I was there. I was there for the ordinary and milestone moments. To clip toe-nails, hold someone's hand, to help prepare meals, give someone a bath; to play, to color and read storybooks and letters. I was there when a young man recovered his eyesight after cataract surgery. I was there when a mother said her final goodbyes to her dying daughter. I was there early one morning after a family lost a loved one to cancer. I was there when one became two.

May it be one-on-one, or in a small circle, I’m ready to share these stories with you when I return. Remember that as my voice begins to tell you, that same breath asks to hear your stories, too. It amazes me that even from afar you have held a special place in my heart. I’ve felt your prayers, your well-wishes, your love and concern; and I am deeply, deeply grateful for your presence.

So it is that I return to you filled with a rumbling, aching hunger in my heart that only your stories will satisfy. I don’t know yet how to make real the things that I’ve experienced except to live moment to moment, situation to situation, with new stories, my story, and under my feet are the common stories we share. These are the things of the Spirit and the heart. These are the things that cannot exist or grow outside of community. It’s what I had to go to Mexico to recognize and what returning home calls on me to believe and feel.

Thank you. Thank you for who you are. Thank you for being such an integral part of the gifts and abilities I brought with me here. Thank you for being the community that sent me on this journey. And until I can be home with you in person, I continue to feel your closeness in such a visceral way.


With ears prepared to listen to your story, and a new-found voice to tell you mine, until soon, hasta pronto,

Katie

P.S. My country coordinator, Andrea posted an open letter to family and friends of returning YAGMs on her blog last year. Here is where you can read her post: An Open Letter to the Friends & Families of Returning Young Adults in Global Mission
 
Back in May I found myself in and out of work due to a bunch of holidays. 

We had: 

·         Primero de Mayo (similar to Labor Day in the US/Canada)
·         Dia de la Santa Cruz (Holy Cross Day)
·         Cinco de Mayo (honoring the victory over the French army in at the Battle of Puebla in 1862)
·         Dia de Madre (Mother’s Day)

While I really missed working in the bakery, learning new dance moves, and practicing English with my enthusiastic chamaquitos at GADI, I had an incredible adventure with friends Katherine, Peter, and Sara in the city of Puebla for Cinco de Mayo celebrations.   


Cinco de Mayo isn’t actually as big of a deal as it seems to be north of the border. Yes, it honors the victory against the French in the Battle of Puebla in 1862 (only later to be lost to the French) but in truth it’s just another national holiday where school are closed and people take the day off. Puebla seems to be the only Mexican city that hosts a parade or any sort of celebration worth mentioning.   

Off to went to take in everything that this colonial mountain city has to offer!
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Katherine, me and Sara in front of the main cathedral. 

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The food certainly lived up to its reputation. Mmm, mole poblano, a thick sauce made of different kinds of spices, chiles and chocolate.  


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It just happened that we were in town for the last few days of a major music and cultural festival called Barroquisimo, which meant we got to see a number of free concerts all around the city.

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AND, to my surprise, the festival ended with a concert by Baaba Maal - a Senegalese pop/world music artist who I’ve listened to since growing up in West Africa!

After the concert: Katherine, me and Baaba. 

Then on Cinco de Mayo, May 5th, we made our way through swarms of people with giant umbrellas in order to watch the parade. 

We had a hard time finding a good spot to see all the action and eventually climbed partway up a giant statue to get a better view. 
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The parade itself was kind of underwhelming since it was basically hours of soldiers and military tanks rolling down the street and only a few floats and high school marching bands to speak of. 

Besides the parade being a bust, the trip was fantastic. Probably the most memorable was our visit to the Pyramid of Cholula - famous for its system of underground tunnels and also considered the world’s widest pyramid. Only what made our trip out there so interesting wasn’t necessarily for the pyramid itself. We started out with a pretty laidback morning walking around the ruins and looking inside the church built on the top of the hill; then as we started walking down the stairs from the church I noticed a familiar face sitting alongside the path.

Next to spread of candies, bracelets and other crafts was Celia, a young woman from the village where I previously worked. I don’t think either of us knew what to do at first but all in an instant Celia and I were hugging and catching up on what’s happened since we last saw each other. It turns out that she’s been away from home for a while in order to help her brother sell baskets, bracelets, and whatever else they can at tourist and pilgrim sites like Cholula. It caught me completely by surprise to connect with Celia here, especially since we never had the chance to say goodbyes before leaving the community.

It’s still hard to put words to this experience except to say that this was such a meaningful encounter. I didn’t even know how to express that to Celia except to tell her that I hope this hug hope wouldn’t be our last.

It’s definitely that memory that will stick with me from our mini-vacation to Puebla. I shared a lot about this with my host mom and coworkers but after a few weeks now that I’m back into my normal routine at work and home, I can’t shake the feeling that more goodbyes are about to happen in this next month and a half. It’s sooner than I would have hoped but I guess now I’m on the homestretch.

Already, some of the teachers at my work have already asked about when I leave Mexico, what I’ll be doing when I get home and if I’ll ever come back and visit. It's hard to think about leaving. These are uncomfortable conversations but it's understandable that they need to happen. We all need to start somehow and in some way thinking about leaving well. 

The major churches, pyramids, cities and quaint small towns may eventually fade into the back of my mind – but again, the ones who have made Mexico so fully part of who I am – people like Celia - simply won’t. 


Maybe I’ll save some of those thoughts for a future post but in the meantime I’m reminded that it’s really those who have grown so close to me this year that make life in Mexico feel like “home”.

From my slice of Mexican “home” to yours,
Katie

 
Sometimes your joy is the source of your smile, but sometimes your smile can be the source of your joy. 
~ Thich Nhat Hanh 

Maybe it’s the oppressive heatwave lately but this quote by Thich Nhat Hanh was just what I needed to come across last week. Figuratively speaking, I guess you could say that it hit me like a refreshingly cold shower! Ahhh…

In any case, these timely words of wisdom and the memories they draw near allowed me to sit back and soak in the thoughts and feelings that have brought me so much joy working with students at GADI, most of whom have Down's syndrome. It’s a brief post but here are a couple joy-filled moments to share with you:

“Sometimes your joy is the source of your smile…”

Joy was the word that popped into my head as I was swamped with hugs last week after returning to work from some time off.  Between tight squeezes and kisses on the cheek, a few of the older students couldn’t wait to say:
 
How are you? I’m fine.

Which actually sounded more like: Owwwa you? I fiiiiy.

I realize that we won’t have perfectly fluent English students by the end of the year and that’s okay. Besides getting our facial muscles to work in a new way, the point in teaching English at GADI is to help students enjoy the satisfaction in learning something new. That sense of confidence and enthusiasm that my students exuded that morning was the source of the cheek-aching smile on my face.

Now I won't be able to forget how contagious joy really is every time I cup my hands around my mouth to emphasize how to use our lips when pronouncing: “Howww arrrrrre youuu? III’mm fiiiinnne."

 
“…but sometimes your smile can be the source of your joy.”


After walking around the garden one morning, Gonzalo came up to me and said: Contento! (Happy!). 

I love that Gonzalo wanted to tell me how happy he felt in that moment, except he didn’t even have to say the words. Already, his thin lips were curled into a cute grin and the smile lines around his 54-year-old face said it all. 

¡Contento!
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Here are a few more pictures from the center where I work:
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Lupita, Elsa (one of the teachers) and Carolina outside in the garden for English class.

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Hanging out: Elsa, Carolina and Alex

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Clapping to the beat...

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It’s May and I realize that this post needs to be titled Better Late Than Never. Still, I really can’t skip over how important the last two weeks of March were. 

Rewind to the week leading up to Easter. Schools were closed for 2 weeks as families flocked to vacation getaways over Semana Santa, or Holy Week, which runs from Palm Sunday to Easter Saturday. 

Semana Santa is also the time when the nighttime (and often daytime) sky cracks and bursts with loud noise makers as friends and family celebrate time together; the streets are choked with vendors selling crafts, sweets and decorative palm branches as elaborate ceremonies, Passion reenactments and solemn processions create a colorful and meditative atmosphere the week preceding Easter. 
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During Semana Santa my parents came for a visit and it was quite the experience showing them around! Unfortunately my brother, Ben, wasn’t able to come along due to work and all sorts of school-related stuff - we missed you! – but he was definitely on our minds the whole time.   

I think Ben was especially pleased with his Mexican “recuerdos”: soccer jerseys, lucha libre masks and a pirated WWE Wrestling DVD we bought at the market.

Anyway, while my parents were here, we travelled to some incredible sites:
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Teotihuacan
, where we climbed the world’s 3rd largest pyramid and walked around what was once the largest Mesoamerican city.

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A stay in Cuernavaca to see where I live and meet my new homestay family. 

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Then there was Puebla, a colonial center that is home to many ornate, gold churches, Talavera pottery, and mouth-watering food (tacos arabe, mole, churros, and so much more!).

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And, finally, we found ourselves in sprawling, urban Mexico City where it seemed like every single one of the 20 million people who live there were also out in the crowds for the tail-end of all the Semana Santa activities. 


Look closely: there’s my mom on the left leaving the crowded Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral.

It was fun to visit a lot of these places together but what I enjoyed most was the chance for my parents and Mexican homestay family to meet each other. We all got together at the house for a few hours of cake, music and good conversation – even despite the language barriers! It was one of those wonderfully surprising moments that allowed me how to experience genuine hospitality and family in a new way.    

Fortunately, after my mom and dad left I didn’t have to spend Easter alone wallowing in feelings of homesickness. I did feel a little sad about the fact that Easter this year would not be a big occasion with my homestay family but instead, a few of the other volunteers and I met for an Easter service and brunch at an English-speaking church where fellow volunteer Peter sings in the choir. It was nice to get dressed up, meet with friends and do something that felt familiar (i.e. church, singing, the tons of flowers and soft smells, cute outfits, Easter bonnets, etc etc.). 

More than anything else, it was special to find good fellowship in the company of the other volunteers that morning and later at our country-coordinator’s house for a monthly meeting/Easter get-together. It was a busy day but it felt like a nice way to cap off a memorable few weeks of religious and cultural significance with the ones who have held me with immense grace and care so far – especially on the heels on some big changes.  
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A classy Easter morning brunch complete with mimosas! Katherine, Peter and Sara.

A while back when my parents were here and as all the Semana Santa festivities took place, the weather was warming up little by little. Now I find myself in the midst of one of the hottest months in this part of Mexico. Cuernavaca’s hilly landscape is transformed into a parched, brown terrain until the rains come in June. 


In this heat, water is scarce and cold showers are a treat. I haven't had any encounters with scorpions yet but as the ants, spiders and other insects come out in full force, and the cockroaches in particular seem to be multiplying, I’m beginning to perfect cockroach-murdering skills. A quick whack or squishing them with my flip-flops seems to do the trick and I’m still basking in the glow of my personal record a few weeks ago: 4 dead cockroaches all at once - even managing to kill one mid-flight! Yeah!

I’m definitely looking ahead to rain clouds and cool breezes but, until then, there’s a wedding that I’ve been asked to be part of at the end of this week. I have somewhat of a vague idea of what to expect (I wish I knew more but I’m just going to have to relax and go along with the surprises on this one – my dress isn’t even made yet!) but it sounds like it will be a fun time and a good way to get to know the family better. I can promise more details in a bit… with pictures to come. 

In the meantime I promise more updates soon, wishing you all well, 
Katie
 
As I sit here writing this blog post it’s hard for me to get my head around the fact that 8 months ago I arrived with my two suitcases and laptop bag – wide-eyed and full of expectation - ready to immerse myself in this year of service and learning in Mexico.   

It all began as an adventure into the entirely unknown and the accompanying feelings were fresh and new. I had a constant bundle of nerves and excitement vibrating all around me; and there were all sorts of wonderings and questions: who would be my new friends? who I would confide in? when would I begin to trust and share parts of this new reality? And…and?

Fast forward to April. April! I can’t help but look back on how these past months have taught me so much about who I am (probably much more so than who others are). Somedays it’s just plain hard to put into words the ways I have been shaped and formed by the people near to me and the places I’ve been. It leaves me feeling grounded in some ways, while in others I’m left not knowing what to think, or wonder if my values seem as clear as I thought they were.

At this point, I’ve found a certain comfort with that reality. Although “comfortable” would not have been the word I used a month and a half ago when, once again, I found myself holding on to two suitcases and a laptop bag – sensing the all-too-familiar feeling of unknown swell within me. Nervous, unsettled, but determined and trusting that it will all turn out alright.

Enter my homestay mom, Mary Paz. Paz, as most people call her (Paz means Peace in Spanish), is this bright, energetic and full of life woman who adores her family and even calls me her “hija/daughter.” She’s fun to go on walks with and talk together when I get back from work either at her sewing shop or at home. As a seamstress, Paz had been able to travel to Chiapas and Guatemala to lead sewing workshops for women who are interested in income generation (setting up their own shops in their own communities + starting small businesses and co-ops). Paz’s stories of Chiapas, which is the furthest south and one of the poorest states in Mexico, are striking. While Paz was there, she was invited to enter into Zapatista communities and work within churches to organize women and teach them basic-to-advanced sewing skills.   

[To learn more about the Zapatistas, or Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional, EZLN), click on this link.]

Paz says that she and the other volunteers would sleep on the floor or on tables for weeks at a time. It was a challenging experience but a huge opportunity to work closely with the rural poor. It’s so clear that she deeply cares for the people she met there, and she’s eager to share the things she learned along the way.

Now to the house we live in... Currently we’re in the final stages of dust, debris, and non-stop construction racket! When I moved in 7 weeks ago the construction team promised us that they would finish the inside of the house in 2 weeks. Then it would be 2 more weeks to work on the backyard. Now, mid-April, they assure us that there’s only 3 weeks to go! It’s kind of hard not to feel frustrated by all that’s going on but at this point there’s really no alternative than to roll with the punches. I guess once you get used to 7 weeks of construction, what’s 10?

It was a big deal to see things moved into the house a few weeks ago because when I got here my room was complete but there wasn’t even a fridge or a stove. So in those first few weeks, Paz and I would go for walks at night, grab some dinner at family-run neighborhood restaurants (basically a few tables and chairs in front of the house) and start to get to know each other over warm quesadillas and spicy salsas.

It's a relief to look around today and see that things are finally coming together. For one, we can cook and store food! Plus, last week, furniture was moved in to the house - except we’re not exactly settled in because the couch, love seat and chairs are still all covered in plastic and tipped over sideways along the edge of the living room! 

This time of waiting for construction to end is teaching me a lot about the value of patience. That’s been pretty obvious. Never before have I heard the words repeated so often: “Poco a poco/Little by little” and “Ya/Done” (or in this case, “almost over”). I feel my attitude shifting somewhat from finding ways to “get through” the dust and noise to instead embrace my homestay mom Paz’s openness to taking things day-by-day and try to make the best of whatever moment or stage of construction that we’re in.

We’ll feel settled in eventually. And now is one of those times where I really need to practice patience, to allow my capacity for being patient increase. Practice makes patience, I tell myself, in order for the big picture to come into focus. This is what change requires. 
 
There was a moment a few weeks ago that brought a smile to my face. From where I was standing at the back of the room, I caught myself smiling in one of those huge, cheek-aching grins as I scanned the room and saw 17 glowing faces staring back at me - all rosy as the blood rushed to their heads in the Down Dog yoga position. 

Welcome to my new work site, G.A.D.I., a day center for children and adolescents with Down’s syndrome. G.A.D.I. stands for Grupo Activo Down Independiente, which literally translates to: Group-Active-Down’s-Independent. 
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It’s a small center with a lot of heart, consisting of teachers, parents, volunteers, and special students. Since children with special needs often face educational and social limitations in Mexican public schools, G.A.D.I. is a safe space to make friends, gain a basic education, and develop independent life skills. 

What I like about the environment here is the mutuality in participation by staff, parents and students. Also, there's no cut-off age when students are asked to leave; in fact, the oldest student is 54 years-old!

Each day begins with an activity like yoga, tae-kwon-doe, or dance. Then the students split into 3 classrooms until lunch. One group is working on writing sentences, reading, basic math, etc., meanwhile another practices shapes, numbers, days of the week. The third classroom is used for speech therapies. At 11:30 we all eat together at one big table. After recess, depending on the day, there is painting, gardening, an after-school recycling program, baking in the on-site bakery - even bowling!
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It’s certainly no free-for-all but there’s a lot of high-energy pulsing around all day every day. In my first two weeks there’s been an escape-artist that we had to chase down the street - twice; the separating of a pair of non-stop ‘cha-cha’ dancers in the middle of class; and the taking away of a whole bunch of distracting and noisy Spiderman and Batman games. Oh, I've also confiscated a bottle of tequila after a student snuck it into the center and started serving his friends at lunch time. 

I’ve also received countless gooey kisses on the cheek; helped tie shoe-laces after little shoes stick out in front of me with a simultaneous question/demand “Por favor?!/Please?!”; plus big, wide open arms that lock around me at the end of the day.     

As I struggle to find my role and figure out how I can be best used, what strikes me the most is that each day is incredible mix of routine and unexpected situations. Lately I’ve put a lot of attention to getting to know the students better, to sit by them at lunch and try to be as present as possible. Everyday with the students at G.A.D.I. is a reminder that I’m really here to be – not do. 

Maybe that’s what bubbled up inside of me as I stretched into a yoga position that Wednesday morning - and burst into a spontaneous smile.

 
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Check back in the next few days... Next up: My homestay family, transportation & rutas in Cuernavaca, my parents’ visit + Semana Santa/Holy Week!
 
In the packing frenzy that followed the recent changes in my living situation and site placement, I considered how important my boots have been since I first put them on in August. I remember buying them before I left for Mexico and feeling absolutely sure that they would hold up considering the many miles of use they would endure in the coming year.   

They were many things: breathable, lightweight and clean! A comfortable yet sturdy pair. 

These trusty hiking boots have carried me up and down the village mountainside, from home to home, and there’s no doubt that they bear the signs of wear and tear (and not to mention a certain odor…).

They’ve trekked throughout village roads on bright, sunny days and through rains when the rush of water running down the roads carries dirt and all sorts of not-so-clean things. They have entered hospitals, clinics, and families’ homes with dirt floors, some cement. They’ve climbed rocky terrain high up the mountain and trudged through both muddy and dry grassy areas. Now after six months of consistent use, they mean more to me than ever. And oh, the stories they tell.

As a way to honor the place, people and their stories, I’d like to share with you some of the soul-satisfying moments (taken almost entirely from journal entries) that have been such a big part of my time in the village: 

  

October 7, 2009  

Working with 22-year-old Edith makes me think long and hard about “rules.” On home-visits I make the effort to shake hands with everyone but when it comes to her, part of me hesitates. I think: “She’ll hold my hand too long, or squeeze it too tight.”   

Edith has Cerebral Palsy and shows a lot of symptoms of arsenic poisoning. Receding gum line. Purple lips. And since she isn’t able to communicate verbally, her mom and aunt have to explain to me why she makes certain noises or behaviors. Most of the time I feel like we’re just guessing.  

Today Edith came out with her aunt and sat down next to me. Then she started shaking her head, clapping her hands, and slapping her feet together. It was almost like a convulsion. When her mom put her hands back in her lap, I noticed she couldn’t control her saliva, another symptom of arsenic poisoning, and it was running down her chin and her hands were somehow covered in this sticky dribble.

“Oh please,” was my reaction. I knew what would come next and I really did not want to hold her hand. Moments later when she reached out and grabbed my hand, it was all I could contain to not flinch and let go right away. “Not clean!” I thought to myself, trying hard not to let any of this show on my face.

It took every part of my inner reserves to force myself to squeeze her hand back so that I would BE with Edith and not just go through the motions. I tried to erase whatever it was that told me to treat Edith differently because of her hygiene issue. More than anything, I sat there wanting to want to hold her hand, to tear down the social rules about cleanliness that act as barriers in moments like this.   Edith reminds me of what I need to learn, reflect on, and who I need to become in that process. I pray so hard to grow to love every part of her this year, even when saliva drips down her chin. She is God’s beloved. Why can I not see that right away?      

Later I went to Ofelia’s house after promising to read “The Three Little Pigs.” It was strange, though, in a home made of corn stalks, adobe and a tarpaper roof, to be reading a story about how a mean fox could “huff and puff and blow your house down.” A house just like this one.

January 14, 2010 

Antonio is doing better now that he’s out of the hospital but still needs a lot of care. Today Gabriela and I brought his mom a few bananas, suero (a rehydration drink), and his medication. When we reached their house Marisol, one of Antonio’s older sisters, ran up and gave me a huge hug!

Scooping her up in my arms I said: “What’s my name?” 

“Katie!”   

“Yes it is! And how old are you?”

“Eight,” she said grinning. 

I started laughing as her mom yelled from the doorway: “Noooooo, you’re four!!”   

Hahaha… Love. Her.

January 29, 2010
 
As we were finishing dinner last night, two of the midwives came over and said the words I’ve wanted to hear all these months: Parto/Birth! 

The midwives took their supplies and gloves out of the clinic and we hustled up to Susi’s house. The whole way there we were alert and wary of the dogs barking and drunk men along the way.

In a well-lit one-room house, Susi was laying on a bed, surrounded by her in-laws and a neighbor. They whispered encouraging words to support her along her labor. Every so often she would get up, sip tea, and walk around the room. She moaned with each contraction, putting her hands on her lower back, exhaling, trying to find a rhythm with her breath. It seemed like the pain had become more intense but her contractions were still far apart. 

By 1am the midwives decided to let Susi rest and told us to return to the Center. They said that when it was time to give birth, a family member would call come and get us. 

Not much later, by 4am we were hurrying up the road again. This time, Susi was in bed covered by blankets and covered her head with a shawl. One of the midwives was under the blanket with a flashlight telling her, “That’s right. Keep going. That’s right.” Susi’s moans were so soft that I could barely hear her. The hushed voices that had encouraged her until this point were now stronger and louder: “Yes, Susi. You can do it, Susi. Come on.”   

Then there was a splash sound! The midwife’s hand reached across the bed for the right supplies and all in an instant a healthy baby girl was born!

Tears, hugs, and well-wishes filled the room. Absolutely incredible. What’s amazing is that all this was done under a blanket. “You might as well do it with your eyes closed,” someone said. And I bet they could. 

We left at 6:30 a.m. Everyone went back to the Center for another hour of sleep but Sarah and I had to meet Socorro, a special woman in front of the church so she could catch a bus to the hospital for a prenatal check-up.  

No, Socorro was not there. With no other choice but to go to her house, Sarah and I ran to her house, entered her room, woke her up, threw some clothes on her and started running again. Down the hill, Sarah kept saying: “She must think she’s dreaming!”   

She was right. It felt so surreal. All sorts of dogs were growling and barking at us, coming super close to our legs and I thought they might bite us. We grabbed some rocks and pretended to throw them but the dogs just wouldn’t let up. Ah, so scary!  I tightened my grip on 7-month pregnant Socorro’s hand and we rushed to the bottom of the hill. 

Gone. The bus left without us. Oh, Socorro, I’m so sorry.   

In the end, the midwife who had delivered the baby not two hours earlier agreed to help find a later bus and accompany Socorro to her appointment. I so admire the women here. For their guts and boldness! For taking risks, for being who they are!   

January 23, 2010   

Esperanza, a 101 year-old woman who lives alone, finally has a cat to keep her company. She calls it Panchita, little Pancha.    

February 12, 2010   

These are the moments of humility and grace I experienced today:
- Taurino, blind in one eye, running after me because I forgot my clipboard at his gate!   

- Then meeting Elidia on the road. She keeps her hand on my elbow as she tells me about her day’s activities.   

Well, until these two encounters, today felt like a frantic race to get everything done. Slow down. I get it now. Their way of being makes this so easy to understand.

  

It’s so strange that a pair of boots can not only bring to life all these stories and special moments but also make a strange sort of grieving and expectation swell up within me.

These boots, the stories they tell and the stories we share are all part of an incredible journey that has allowed me to walk alongside - and be transformed by - the community and specific people I was placed with.

In the meantime, I’m learning to trust. Trusting that the new place, people and all the surprises that are just around the bend shed light on this journey still. Most of all, trusting that in this next step God will be waiting for me there. 

Grateful for you, who accompany me on this path, paso a paso, step by step, 
Katie
 
Dear friends and family,   

Since February there have been some major changes in my site placement and living situation, ultimately reshaping the direction of the remainder of my time in Mexico.   

After an unexpected and heart-crushing turn of events, a whirlwind of social and legal issues in the village became heated and intense. Until things subside, the organization had to significantly decrease its presence in the village and put a halt to the work that is being carried out.     

Sarah and I ended our placement and without having the chance to visit the village one last time and say goodbye. It’s been tough. 

This week has been a sort of physical and spiritual “limbo” for me. I feel that all this upheaval has left me feeling torn and uprooted. I’ve said painful goodbyes to our coworkers in the office but haven’t had that same chance with those dear to me in the village. Plus there’s been a lot of packing and unpacking in a few short days – and more to come in the next phase (moving in with a homestay family in Cuernavaca and adjusting to a new work site). 

After Sarah and I carefully packed our bags and left the apartment, our country coordinator Andrea and her husband Luke graciously took us in for a week (even though they were in the midst of a move, too). We settled in with them for a couple days and then moved into their new house. Here we’ve been staying while Andrea sorts out separate placement sites and living situations. It’s true, as someone pointed out, that’s we’re in good hands with Andrea “at the helm.” 

But even before the shifts from apartment to house, and house again, last Sunday I got to see familiar faces during a Skype conversation with my home congregation, St. Luke’s. I could feel the love in that room! It was so wonderful to share what my experience has been like in the village, to describe the place, the people, and the stories we share. More than anything, it gave me new energy to and openness to embrace what’s in front of me. 

The up-rootedness that seems to be unfolding all around me will gradually fade into the past. Of that I’m sure. Still, I don’t know what comes next. What I’m most grateful for now is the tons of support and encouragement like what I experienced last Sunday. I know the joys, struggles, and vulnerability in these past weeks are held with great care and empathy; transforming, in a sense, this time of up-rootedness into feelings of rootedness. 

From the bottom of my heart, thanks to each and every one of you for being who you are and helping me grow from here. 

In peace, 
Katie
 
“María… Agustín… Daniel… José.”

¡Presente!” we called out in unison, our voices rising against the noise of traffic along the Pan-American Highway. Walking in a single-line formation, the Healing Our Borders vigil continued slowly and deliberately toward the port of entry in Douglas, Arizona and Agua Prieta, Sonora as the names of countless deceased migrants were said aloud. Behind us, a string of white, wooden crosses were placed against the sidewalk, marking those who had died crossing the desert. 

A two-block silent witness to the human aspect of the border. 

Then my turn. Facing the street, I held out a white cross over my head and yelled out the name etched in black marker, “No identificada/Not identified.” A moment of pause to honor the presence of this woman who died while crossing the desert in order to reach El Norte.

While time stood still, my mind almost couldn’t bear the weight of what had just been said. No identificada. Unnamed woman. She is like so many others without a name, without a face. Someone’s daughter, sister, friend. A stranger. Forgotten. But we remember. 

¡Presente!” the vigil responded, simultaneously bringing me into that present moment where the realities of hope lost and hope found are so tenderly held. 

During that Tuesday evening vigil, it became abundantly clear to me that the border tells a human story. Tragically, this story is also filled with the silenced voices like that of No identificada. And all humans deserve a name. All humans have a story. 

Particularly on the border we remember that the power people and their stories contain can bring dignity, wholeness, and mercy to an incredibly complex situation. 


This is some of what we saw, heard, and felt along our border journey:

- Resting in a dry riverbed, three women remain silent among a group of 15 or 20 migrants who wait to cross at night. They come from all parts of Mexico and from here it’s a slow and winding trek toward the wall in order to remain undetected by surveillance. Once they reach the wall, an even more daunting, long and tiring walk through the mountains awaits them - a dangerous situation for anyone but especially for women.

- No hay otra opcion/There is no other option, a migrant from the Mexican state of Hidalgo says. Another: I miss my city. Where I come from it’s beautifulNo hay empleo/There are no jobs.

- Jairo says he misses San Pedro Sula, the industrial capital of Honduras where he was raised. A ruining economy pushes him to the edge, jumping on freight trains that pass through Guatemala and into Mexico’s southern border. This way, there are no checkpoints. When they encounter Mexican authorities, migrants jump off, hide and wait for the next train to pass. There is serious risk involved with this kind of northbound travel: many fall or are pushed from the trains and die; multiple injuries like losing an arm or a leg, or possibly both; assaults. Still, Jairo presses on, having crossed 5 times since he was 15. This is the first time he brought his brother on that same journey into the United States. He is 16 years-old.  

- No pudé/I couldn’t. (Jesús, from the Mexican state of Chihuahua.)


- I thought I made it… he came out of nowhere. Then I got spooked and started running which is why we got caught,Eduardo says lacing his shoes. Eduardo was 10 years-old when he crossed with his mother and sisters. In perfect English, a now twenty-something man asks why we choose to live in Mexico for a year. Do you like it? Curious because México is not his home. Dreams of becoming a doctor were always out of reach since he didn’t have papers.  After a short stint in roofing ended with an immigration raid, Eduardo was deported on December 30, 2009, separating him from his family. Desperately eager to reunite, this was his 6th time attempting to cross in just over a month. Will you try to cross again? I ask. I don’t know, he says. I have to.

- A small black dot moved along the grey U.S. Border Patrol video surveillance screen. Another figure walked away in the opposite direction, then hopped the wall, and got into his car. That was her guide, a border agent explained. You can see how he just left her there. We watched on as the figure crawled, inch by inch, through the desert brush. Minutes after the dispatch call was sent out, we watched the woman’s arrest unfold. Energy swelled in that room. Border agents were boosted by a job well done. Inside, my head was trying to grasp whether what was done was necessary, Maybe this is one less death in a desert? But my heart moaned, This is someone’s life. Her aspirations, dreams and reality. Where does the hope go

Wrapped up in the silence space where these stories reside, I struggle to reflect on how far removed these realities are from my own - yet they so powerfully resonate with who I am. More than anything, the reminder that someone’s life now bears the name No identificada/not identified gets my interior, deeply held thoughts and beliefs rolling and reeling.

 
God call us by name. God makes us whole.

We left the border and returned to Cuernavaca. Except the border is not just there. With the faces and stories of those we met sinking into my conscience, I recognize that it’s in our governmental policies, in our communities, our churches, and in our conversations.

 
As I explore within my own heart how to act in response, to find boldness in seeking out justice and reconciliation for those affected by the dividing walls between us, I invite you to dialogue with me. There are no easy solutions that respond to these challenges – and certainly this one-week immersion experience makes me no expert. However, I intend to learn more. And to listen so that so that the burden of all the conflict, pain, loss, and separation can break my heart, and remind me of the hope that always exists.